Sunday, March 19, 2006

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Posts: 194  Registered: Jul 2004
bargainshunt

Shopaholic Member

Date Posted: Mar/16/2006 5:08 PM

look here



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Posts: 626  Registered: Feb 2005
studia

Happy Member

Date Posted: Mar/16/2006 6:33 PM

Camry Thread



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Posts: 626  Registered: Mar 2003
lousygolfer

Senior Member

Date Posted: Mar/16/2006 10:25 PM

Yes, you can usually get good deals on last year's models, but those will usually sell out by January of the new year, sometimes mid-fall even.

Try shopping on the last day or two of the month. Car dealers want to clear their inventory then for at least two reasons: (a) their sales incentives (both the dealership's and the individual salesperson's commissions and bonuses) are usually based on their monthly figures; and (b) the dealership has to pay for insurance for the entire month on a car even if it is sold on the morning of the 1st day of the month, so they want to avoid that charge.

You can try getting the new car price list from www.consumerreports.com which tells you the dealer's actual invoice and will let you know what dealer incentives are available that month, so you can see the dealer's real cost, not just their claimed "invoice price." However, the first report costs $12 and subsequent ones are $10 (although they have unlimited access for something like $39/mo.) Consumerreports.com also has some bargaining and shopping tips on their website.

Get the best price on a particular car you want from Dealer A, then take that price to Dealer B or C and get them to beat it. Then go back to Dealer A with the new lower price and get the dealers to enter into a bidding war for your dollars.

Always act levelheaded and never get really excited about any given car - you don't want to appear desparate or the salesperson won't bargain much. Be prepared to walk away from any deal and if you don't like what the salesperson is trying to spew in his/her sales pitch, don't be afraid to tell him/her to cut the crap. Tell the salesperson "My bottom line on this car is $XXXX dollars out the door with tax, title and everything. If you want to sell me this vehicle, you have two minutes to agree to that price or I'm headed to your competitor's dealership."

If you're a woman, a minority or an elderly person, be on the lookout, because you probably will be stereotyped into a demographic of suckers and weak-willed persons who can be pushed and pulled into paying a lot for a car. A former client (a real dirtbag) was a car salesman and he used to tell me they would push non-white, non-male and non-elderly clients a whole lot harder into buying all sorts of useless crap and add-ons like undercoating, rustproofing, dealer prep charges, etc.... This guy told me the most commission he ever made was not on one of the $100k Porche turbos he sold, but on a Nissan Stanza he sold to an old black woman he managed to convince buy something like $8000 in extra crap beyond the base price of the car.

Tell the salesperson you're not interested in a trade-in when they first ask. It makes sense to keep things simple so that you don't have multiple unknown variables involved in the overall net price. Once you get the very lowest price you think is available, at that point discuss trade-in price (you can say you changed your mind or are just curious what they would offer). Note, though, that you usually can get a whole lot more money if you sell the car yourself. When my wife purchased her new Jetta, the dealer offered her only $1000 trade-in on her Toyota Camry, so we put an ad in the classifieds and sold it the next weekend for $3500.



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Posts: 768  Registered: Apr 2004
captainlynne

Senior Member

Date Posted: Mar/16/2006 10:51 PM

Carbuyingtips.com
fightingchance.com

Check out these, its all you need to know to get a great deal.



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Posts: 106  Registered: Feb 2005
spinsane

Member

Date Posted: Mar/16/2006 11:40 PM

I'd have to recommend the Motley's Fool book "You Have More Than You Think." The beginning of the book focuses on buying a car, with quite a few handy tips. Just another resource for ya



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Posts: 1960  Registered: May 2002
dyn0

Senior Member
1K

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 12:43 AM

Great post!

I would recommend emailing tons of dealership within about 100 miles of you. I bought 3 camrys, and they were all from diff dealerships, because I would look for the lowest price I could get. I think I probably emailed 50 dealerships, and would keep emailing them the offers I was getting and asking them to beat them. Most of the time they would use the line, "Well if you can get that price, tell me where to get it, cause I would like to buy one too". Or the line, "Make sure they are adding all the fees, because I don't believe that price". Sad part is, they were all legit. I would avoid going into the dealership until you have the deal made online.. Then when you have teh quote with ALL fees added to it (make him invoice you), then go into the dealership with a PRINT out of the invoice, and do it. If they change anything, tell them u are walking and stick with it. They will usually back down and accept what they said. I always ask for free oil changes or something over email, and say that another dealership is offering me it, usually if its a great deal they are going to turn it down, but its worth a shot.

Anyway, if you have any questions, feel free to PM me. I have done this multiple times for my family!

Good luck!

lousygolfer said:

Yes, you can usually get good deals on last year's models, but those will usually sell out by January of the new year, sometimes mid-fall even.

Try shopping on the last day or two of the month. Car dealers want to clear their inventory then for at least two reasons: (a) their sales incentives (both the dealership's and the individual salesperson's commissions and bonuses) are usually based on their monthly figures; and (b) the dealership has to pay for insurance for the entire month on a car even if it is sold on the morning of the 1st day of the month, so they want to avoid that charge.

You can try getting the new car price list from www.consumerreports.com which tells you the dealer's actual invoice and will let you know what dealer incentives are available that month, so you can see the dealer's real cost, not just their claimed "invoice price." However, the first report costs $12 and subsequent ones are $10 (although they have unlimited access for something like $39/mo.) Consumerreports.com also has some bargaining and shopping tips on their website.

Get the best price on a particular car you want from Dealer A, then take that price to Dealer B or C and get them to beat it. Then go back to Dealer A with the new lower price and get the dealers to enter into a bidding war for your dollars.

Always act levelheaded and never get really excited about any given car - you don't want to appear desparate or the salesperson won't bargain much. Be prepared to walk away from any deal and if you don't like what the salesperson is trying to spew in his/her sales pitch, don't be afraid to tell him/her to cut the crap. Tell the salesperson "My bottom line on this car is $XXXX dollars out the door with tax, title and everything. If you want to sell me this vehicle, you have two minutes to agree to that price or I'm headed to your competitor's dealership."

If you're a woman, a minority or an elderly person, be on the lookout, because you probably will be stereotyped into a demographic of suckers and weak-willed persons who can be pushed and pulled into paying a lot for a car. A former client (a real dirtbag) was a car salesman and he used to tell me they would push non-white, non-male and non-elderly clients a whole lot harder into buying all sorts of useless crap and add-ons like undercoating, rustproofing, dealer prep charges, etc.... This guy told me the most commission he ever made was not on one of the $100k Porche turbos he sold, but on a Nissan Stanza he sold to an old black woman he managed to convince buy something like $8000 in extra crap beyond the base price of the car.

Tell the salesperson you're not interested in a trade-in when they first ask. It makes sense to keep things simple so that you don't have multiple unknown variables involved in the overall net price. Once you get the very lowest price you think is available, at that point discuss trade-in price (you can say you changed your mind or are just curious what they would offer). Note, though, that you usually can get a whole lot more money if you sell the car yourself. When my wife purchased her new Jetta, the dealer offered her only $1000 trade-in on her Toyota Camry, so we put an ad in the classifieds and sold it the next weekend for $3500.





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Posts: 16  Registered: Nov 2005
BrianBacon

New Member

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 5:21 AM

ditto what dyn0 said.

I've done what he suggest here only I faxed all the dealerships within 100 miles of me of what I wanted (my preferences in color, options, ect), and what I was willing to pay for them after researching actual dealer cost online. I also marked my faxes attention fleet manager and told them to only contact me if they could meet my price. I did it this way based on what my social psychology professor at ASU taught his students (if you're reading this, THANKS).

Two or three called me back, and while a vehicle with the exact options/color wasn't readily available for sale, I paid the same amount and got a few more options.

Besides price, the best thing about it was I was in and out in less than 2 hours. None of the BS you usually deal with car shopping on the lot.

I advise you to get your own financing (if need be) prior to purchasing the vehicle. My friend who worked at Ford Motor Credit told me dealers would call in asking for best rate available for a person and my friend might say 10%. Well that's not the rate the dealer told the client. The paperwork would often go through at 5-6-7% higher, and guess who kept the difference.

Good Luck



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Posts: 3  Registered: Mar 2006
webmerch

New Member

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 11:44 AM

Use www.carsdirect.com
No negotition if you are happy with the price. You just pick up the car.
Other than that, if you have the time, just follow the ABOVE discussions which is the best way
Good luck



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Posts: 45  Registered: Nov 2003
sheetz

Member

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 12:48 PM

I recommend mycar.com. It's a reverse auction where the dealerships bid against each other on the price they are willing to sell to you. The final price was far cheaper than carsdirect and I doubt I could have done better myself. 100% painless.



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Posts: 6  Registered: Oct 2004
ping898

New Member

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 1:24 PM

When it comes to buying cars, I am more of a hands on person as opposed to negotiating via the interent. If you prefer to go to a dealership or as in my case really only have 1 dealership to choose from, you'll have more negotiating power if you are willing to take a car that is already on the lot (they loose money each day it is on the lot) and if you go at the end of the month when they have to meet sales quotas.

Also if you are doing a trade in ask if the dealer does loyalty discounts. I got an extra $1000 off my car cause I went VW to VW

Message edited by: ping898 on 2006-03-17 13:25:33 CST



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Posts: 131  Registered: Feb 2006
OverRuled

Member

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 1:57 PM

The best deal on new car that I know of is from fitzmall.com.



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Posts: 27  Registered: Jan 2003
negotiant

Happy Member

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 2:09 PM

This is good post.

I negotiated about 10 cars via different medium like phone, internet and even personally.

1. The first thing to keep in mind then you are not willing to buy car today at any cost, you are going there to see what you are getting for money you are willing to spend. That's way you want be unhappy if you don't get car. Usually buyer gets unhappy when they don't get car on same day and they make bad decision on very next day. This is emotional purchase and big purhcase.
2. Do your homework....KBB, edmunds and other auto related websites gives you invoice price, Treu market value and current incentives plus loan intrest rate.
3. Dealers always asks first that what you wan't to spend every month, down payment, trading or not.....they they will start negotiationg. They will increase length of your loan to decrease payment and most of minorities or new buyers will fall for that by looking at monthly payment. So be aware........
3. Always ask to best intrest rate, usually motor corporations intrest rated are lower then bank rates if your credit is good. Even if its not good they are willing to lend you money with decent intrest rate. So make sure about intrest rate and term of the loan.
4. Always ask for freebies......like floor mats, cargo net, wheel locks, few oil changes etc.....10 free oil changes last you upto 50,000 miles.
5. Check paperwork before you sign any document. Look for additional fees like taxes, handling charges and registration. If you see any other fees then above fee and ask question. If you are not satisfied.....don't buy.

6. The main part is be ready to walk away in any case......If not happy if anything say I don't want to buy and without extending discussion walk away. There are more cars in lots and in production assembly the prospective buyers.

Need any help PM me.



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Posts: 288  Registered: Dec 2002
fonzinator

Senior Member

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 2:22 PM

Why a new car? Why not save a TON of money and buy a gently used car? IMO, buying new vs. used is one of the best ways to make your wallet Thin, not Fat.



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Posts: 6326  Registered: Sep 2004
dkong

Senior Member
6K

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 3:44 PM

Green to all those who gave great advice; in particular: lousygolfer, dyn0, BrianBacon, webmerch, and sheetz.

Message edited by: dkong on 2006-03-17 15:45:06 CST



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Posts: 191  Registered: Aug 2005
clayton99

Member

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 5:01 PM

Here is a link to a previous FW thread. If you read this you will be sure to get the best deal possible on a car. I used the methods and it works.

http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/messageview.php?catid=24&threadid=444610&highlight_key=y&keyword1=car




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Posts: 3419  Registered: Nov 2004
SickTeddyBear

Senior Member
3K

Date Posted: Mar/17/2006 7:25 PM

There is one universal rule for getting the best price for anything:

Know ahead of time the maximum amount you're willing to spend, and then walk away if you don't get it.

The key to getting a good deal on a car is preparation. When you walk into a dealership, you already know what you want and how much you're willing to pay, and all you're doing is toying with the salesperson, like a cat plays with a mouse before he kills it.

Message edited by: SickTeddyBear on 2006-03-18 22:14:25 CST



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Posts: 867  Registered: Aug 2000
darius11

Senior Member

Date Posted: Mar/18/2006 12:23 PM

Yeah - I definately agree - though my wife and I had this in mind while shopping for a car this summer, and we left a trail of very ticked off salespeople. One of which told us that he was insulted by our offer and told us to leave his dealership (355 Toyota in Silver Springs, MD) and wouldn't even shake our hands. This was after being lured in by one of those rock bottom advertisements in the paper where they claim an unbelievable price on the totally stripped-down manual transmission 2x4 version, going in thinking "well, if they dropped a $22,000 sticker price to $15,000, then maybe they'll drop a $25,000 sticker down to $18,000, or somewhere around that." I wasn't surprised that it doesn't work that way.

So, the key thing to do is to NOT FEAR things like that. Most of us are reluctant to be confrontational and will bargain too much - but these people aren't friends, they are opponents. They are trying to take more of your hard-earned money for the same vehicle - if you find that bottom point, you will know it. We once got down to a difference of $500 and I said we'll walk if you can't come down $500 more and two different "managers" told us to walk. I couldn't believe that they would miss out on a sale over $500, but that must have been the 0 commission point or something.

Also, don't ever mention that you have a trade till the last minute, as other posters have said. That is the single greatest bit of advice - they will tell you they're giving you $4,000 for your car, but if you didn't ahve a trade, you would be paying another $750 - 1000 or so for the car. Selling outright, even if the car is messed up, will net you more dough. Just be reasonable about your asking price and point out all the things that are wrong with the car to the prospective buyer. I would unload the car as fast as possible, though, to avoid continued insurance payments, etc., or take to something like CarMax.

BTW - does anyone else think this manager stuff is a load of crap? I think each salesperson takes his/her turn being "manager" for other salespeople.



There is one universal rule for getting the best price for anything:

Know ahead of time the maximum amount you're willing to spend, and then walk away if you don't get it.

The key to getting a good deal on a car is preparation. When you walk into a dealership, you already know what you want and how much you're willing to pay, and all you're doing is toying with the saleman, like a cat plays with a mouse before he kills it.





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Posts: 132  Registered: May 2004
tooloud

Member

Date Posted: Mar/18/2006 1:34 PM

darius11 said:

We once got down to a difference of $500 and I said we'll walk if you can't come down $500 more and two different "managers" told us to walk. I couldn't believe that they would miss out on a sale over $500, but that must have been the 0 commission point or something.



You can't believe you'd lose the car over $500? Exactly how much do you think car dealers make on cars? I've "lost" cars over $100 before.


BTW - does anyone else think this manager stuff is a load of crap? I think each salesperson takes his/her turn being "manager" for other salespeople.



Of course it's a load of crap. If you even have to ask, you haven't done your homework.

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